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Thursday, June 12,2014

Rain or shine

La Revolucin and its all-purpose patio

By Josh Gross
Susan France

It’s hard to quantify something like “best patio.” But even without statistics wunderkind Nate Silverapproved objective data, it’s fair to say to that La Revolución Taqueria and Cantina in old town Louisville is in the running. At least half the total square footage is a broad, sunlit concrete plateau full of umbrella-topped tables, ringed by a low, stylish metal fence, and roofed by strings of festive lights. The view is of the quaint, tree-lined business district, and if you’re lucky, a passing train. On a sunny day, there is nay finer a spot to stuff yourself full of tacos.

However, on my visit, it was dumping rain, a welcome sight to my Portland heart, but less than ideal patio conditions. And the claustrophobic interior design with tables about a tortilla’s breadth apart wasn’t going to do at all. Luckily, several tables near the inside and outside facing bar were covered, making a small section of the patio almost as pleasant in rain as it is in shine.

The majority of the menu is a slightly classier take on Mexican street food, with classics like tacos, tortas and tamales, as well as plated entrees like stuffed poblano peppers and mole chicken. Four salsas (Charred Arbol Chile and Roasted Tomato, Creamy Tomatillo, Roasted Corn and Black Bean or Pineapple Serrano) are available.

In addition to its taco and taco-related offerings, La Revolución offers a brunch menu from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends.

The stuffed French toast is particularly standout, though it’s more due to what it’s stuffed with than the toast itself. The tequila-glazed bananas on the inside are a sweet, gooey delight, and they really sing with the hint of spice from the chiliinfused maple syrup. But rather than being served on a nice thick slice of brioche or a showier bread matched to the majesty of the bananas, the toast itself was slightly lackluster. But it doesn’t matter much when they’re stuffed with those bananas.

There are more traditional, “desayuno-ey” items as well, like Huevos Rancheros, Chorizo con Huevos and breakfast tacos.

The chilaquiles are a nice Mexican-style breakfast with eggs, rice and beans atop a bed of red chili sauce soaked and grilled tortillas with sliced avocado and pico as garnish. It was especially nice that La Revolución used whole pinto beans instead of refried or black beans.

Round all that out with a nice selection of cocktails, and flourless chocolate torte crusted with coconut on the dessert menu, and La Revolución and its wonderful patio seals the deal.

Until you have to go to the bathroom on the inside of the building. Then, it’s best to acquaint yourself with the phrase, “perdón, necesito pasar.”

Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com

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