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Thursday, September 6,2012

Power lunching on Pearl for $10

By Clay Fong
"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds,” famously wrote Ralph Waldo Emerson. Perhaps a modern corollary to this pearl of wisdom is “A foolish inconsistency is the hobgoblin of short-lived restaurateurs.”
Thursday, August 30,2012

A farmhouse kitchen and pub

By Clay Fong
This new self-styled farmhouse kitchen and pub distinguishes itself by offering locavore small plates as well as a relatively affordable prix fixe menu spotlighting ingredients from Chef Eric Skokan’s farm.
Thursday, August 23,2012

Brunch at Boulder’s Brasserie Ten Ten

By Clay Fong
Seated at a sunny outdoor table so as to best emulate a Parisian sidewalk experience, we began with full-bodied cups of $2.50 coffee.
Thursday, August 16,2012

A classic diner standby still delivers

By Clay Fong
The energetic cooks and servers here are a friendly yet efficient lot, and the menu holds few surprises for a breakfast and lunch joint. Offerings include a full complement of egg dishes ranging from single egg, bacon and toast kids specials for $4 to $8 jumbosized helpings of huevos rancheros.
Thursday, August 9,2012

Mainlining cured meats and cheeses

By Clay Fong
Back in the ’70s, Dad would often return from overseas business trips with his battered black briefcase freighted not with paperwork, but culinary treasures. Returning from Lisbon, Dad once brought back an enigmatic hunk of salted meat. “It’s Portuguese prosciutto,” he explained, “and it’s illegal in the United States.”
Thursday, August 2,2012

Burgers and shakes with style

By Clay Fong
I used to mess with my friend Andrew by feeding him false reports that a popular burger and milkshake chain had set up shop in Colorado. As it turns out, that chain now does have a Denver-area outpost, but it’s far enough away to require advanced planning, and who wants to deal with that?
Thursday, July 26,2012

Vegan food for meat eaters

By Clay Fong
Meeting up with old friends Michael and Allison, a dining dilemma posed itself. Michael describes himself as the antithesis of a vegan, while Allison is a self-proclaimed picky eater straddling the line between vegetarianism and full-tilt veganism. While there’s more than a few spots that can accommodate vegan dining, some are more compromised than others. In some cases, meatless offerings are nothing more than a thoughtlessly thrown together veggie plate.
Thursday, July 19,2012

An old favorite endures

By Clay Fong
I’m not sure if this is more Pavlovian or Proustian, but for many normal folks, hearing a particular song transports them back to a particular time and place. For example, I’ll always associate the first day I set foot in Boulder in 1994 with Seal’s “Prayer for the Dying,” as that was playing on the then-local station. Unlike normal people, I’ll also associate restaurants with certain times in my life. For that mid-Clinton era, I’ll fondly recall long-defunct eateries like the LA Diner and Trios.
Thursday, July 12,2012

Respecting the urban taco’s roots

By Clay Fong
I’ll argue that the most critical determinant of an ethnic restaurant’s success is how much it respects the source cuisine. Go to any ethnic neighborhood in a big city, and you’ll likely chance upon a family-run hole in the wall that’s wildly popular due to its authentic home-style cooking.
Thursday, July 5,2012

An alternative to the Indian buffet

By Clay Fong
Curry N Kebob fills a unique niche among Indian eateries by not featuring the ubiquitous buffet. Most options here cost a buck or two less than typical all-you-can-eat offerings, and service is reasonably fast, permitting those pressed for time to enjoy a subcontinental lunch.
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