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Thursday, October 13,2011

Pizza in the backcountry

By Clay Fong
Spun off from its namesake Nederland predecessor, Boulder’s recently opened Backcountry Pizza and Taphouse ably occupies the gap between chain restaurants and artisan pizzerias. It retains much of the unpretentious charm of its mountain parent, which is an endearingly comfortable spot to visit after hitting the slopes at Eldora. To its credit, Backcountry also exudes enough culinary variety to pique the interest of the foodie set — and offering a selection of more than 50 beers probably doesn’t hurt either.
Thursday, October 6,2011

Asian food for all tastes

By Clay Fong
Pan-Asian variety is the name of the game at Pearl Street’s Moongate Asian Bistro, which features a diverse and affordable Asian menu. Classic Chinese-American cookery is one of the stars of the show here, with such venerable chestnuts as Kung Pao chicken and broccoli beef on tap. Moongate also offers several Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese selections, including pad thai, sushi and Saigon soft shell crab.
Thursday, September 29,2011

Comfort food at Lulu's

By Clay Fong
Generally, the newest local restaurants shy away from the excess frilliness of haute cuisine and instead towards venerable comfort foods. For the past year, gourmet pizza has been all the rage, and folks can’t seem to get enough of updated pies with artisan toppings and authentic Italian pedigrees.
Thursday, September 22,2011

Going samurai at Alfalfa's

By Clay Fong
Consider the traditional Japanese breakfast. Instead of pork products, the protein usually consists of heart-friendly fish like mackerel and salmon. Eggs appear, but in modest quantities. Steamed rice replaces hash browns, and there’s usually a smattering of land or sea vegetables.
Thursday, September 15,2011

Georgia boys BBQ may be best on the Front Range

By Clay Fong
One of the required American barbecue trail pilgrimages is Dallass Sonny Bryans, a joint renowned for its meltingly tender beef brisket. There are several locations scattered throughout the city, but the cognoscenti know that the food is best at the original shack on Inwood Road.
Thursday, September 8,2011

An authentic Mexican taqueria

By Clay Fong
Whenever I go back to the Bay Area for family visits, it’s inevitable I stop by San Leandro’s Taqueria Los Pericos with one or both of my brothers. I suspect our visits are equally driven by the quality of the food as well as having us be seen in public for the purpose of establishing an alibi. Regardless, my brothers introduced me to authentic street-style tacos, and I completely understand their loyalty to this proverbial hole-in-the-wall.
Thursday, September 1,2011

A taste of the South

By Clay Fong
As a longtime High Country denizen, I must admit a vague understanding of what constitutes the Low Country, although Pat Conroy seems to have something to do with it. However, a handy glossary on the back of Boulder’s new Shug’s Low Country Cuisine menu and a spot of research sheds light on the subject.
Thursday, August 25,2011

Get in the zone

By Clay Fong
When I was in high school, I participated in a summertime drama workshop that met in a studio above a San Francisco deli. We met in the afternoons, and one day I had gone to class without eating anything. Partway through the session, I became ravenously hungry while our teacher was peppering us with questions about staging our production.
Thursday, August 18,2011

Middle Eastern eats and sweets

By Clay Fong
There’s something inherently enigmatic about a restaurant calling itself Pickled Lemon, as this moniker raises more questions than answers. Is this a venue for citrus-based cocktails? Does the menu focus on fruit? Is this a cryptic reference to a Tina Fey character? Dessert Diva Danette Randall and I decided to investigate by checking out this newly opened fast-casual establishment on The Hill.
Thursday, August 11,2011

The food next door

By Clay Fong
Three things distinguish The Kitchen [Next Door] from its namesake neighbor, namely a focus on swift service for time-constrained diners, menu offerings all less than $9, and a family-friendly emphasis. Open since June, this eatery succeeds on all these counts, although one suspects the current customer base consists more of hip foodies than literal small fry.
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