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Thursday, February 9,2012

Making room for high-end steak

By Clay Fong
Word was the Lady in Gray wanted to meet. She’s my counterpart at our cross-town rival, the Obscura, or whatever it’s called, and she thought it would be interesting if we reviewed a place together. She made reservations at the new Pearl Street Steak Room. I got there early and sat with my back to the wall so she didn’t get the drop on me.
Thursday, February 2,2012

Nothing bitter about this bar

By Clay Fong
The Bitter Bar occupies the Walnut Street space previously inhabited by the Happy Noodle House, which, like its successor, was operated by the Big Red F Restaurant Group. Given the new enterprise’s heavy focus on libations, it’s unsurprising that this spot retains a hip, lounge-like vibe that lends itself well to casual cocktails or an informal dinner.
Thursday, January 26,2012

Shine on

By Clay Fong
When I first heard the name of Boulder’s new eatery Shine, I was hoping it would feature entertainment by a troubled pianist portrayed by actor Geoffrey Rush. Alas, Shine appears more to refer to notions of maximized self-actualization than David Helfgott, although music is on the menu. The latest venture from the Emich triplets, this gathering space, bar and restaurant is just a few doors down from their former establishment, Trilogy.
Thursday, January 19,2012

A solid addition in Lafayette

By Clay Fong
Lafayette’s 95a Bistro and Sushi, located on Arapahoe at the former site of the Magnolia Steakhouse is a contemporary and comfortable eatery that features affordable lunches, including $9 burgers with shoestring fries, $12 lamb shank tortellini and a $10 squash agnolotti pasta plate. Dinner choices include some of the light- Susan France er lunch choices as well as an affordable $16 aged ribeye steak and a $15 red snapper garnished with brown butter, caramelized onions and roasted peppers.
Thursday, January 12,2012

An escape to Paris

By Clay Fong
I thought Chef Radek Czerny’s L’Atelier, deeply influenced by classic French cuisine, would satisfy this hunger. The ambience here combines elements of the old and the new, melding retro Hummel figurines with an elegant yet modern palette of understated but not drab colors. As always, the service is among the most professionally rendered in town, and during a recent lunch visit, patrons were decidedly quieter than the livelier dinnertime clientele.
Thursday, January 5,2012

Bar and grill bites that satisfy

By Clay Fong
Local stalwart Murphy’s retains its longstanding atmosphere of conviviality, being equally suitable for both families with children and the solitary diner seeking a simple brew and burger at the bar.
Thursday, December 29,2011

Aloy succeeds Chy for Thai

By Clay Fong
Arriving at Boulder’s Aloy Thai Cuisine, I wondered if this restaurant is the Ken to its predecessor restaurant, Chy Thai, aka the Mark of this labored analogy. The location is the same, and an exterior banner touts that the food and ownership are the same, although the name has changed. Inside, the most noticeable difference is disappearance of the counter apparatus which gave the former incarnation a down-market, cafeteria vibe.
Thursday, December 22,2011

A taste of Kerouac

By Clay Fong
Our student body president would have felt at home at Minglewood, a new eatery primarily catering to a lunchtime worker crowd near 55th and Arapahoe. Staff wearing Steal Your Face t-shirts, posters featuring Jerry, and a menu paying homage to Beats and bands ranging from Kerouac to Jefferson Airplane (how Grace Slick could go from “Somebody to Love” to “We Built This City” still confounds) give this spot distinctive character.
Thursday, December 15,2011

Improved decor, and the taste to match

By Clay Fong
My friend Auden was visiting from the Western Slope, and it’s customary for us to visit an Asian eatery, since decent ones are mighty scarce in his neck of the woods. To be frank, things didn’t go so well the last go-around. Attempting to prove our foodie street cred to one another, we’d gone to a Vietnamese restaurant and ordered congealed blood cube soup. Each of us tried to be hospitable by insisting that the other polish off this delicacy, but ultimately, much of the bowl remained unfinished. This time, I decided to play it safe by suggesting a visit to Boulder’s Korea House, located on 28th Street and Glenwood Drive.
Thursday, December 8,2011

Tossa Pizza strikes a balance

By Clay Fong
For some odd reason, when I first heard of Boulder’s new eatery, Tossa Pizza, my mind swiftly visualized Luigi Risotto reciting this restaurant’s name in a comical Italian accent.