The French concept of terroir is generally taken to mean a localized combination of weather, soil and other physical attributes that create a unique food product, such as Bordeaux wine.

About a year ago, I was dismayed to learn that Longmont's Ichiban was suspending its sushi and sashimi service, as this was perhaps my favorite spot for variations on the raw fish theme. I was out of sorts until learning that a retooled version of Ichiban reopened late last fall with sushi Sensei John back at the helm.

Most dishes here are South American, with a particular focus on Venezuela and Colombia. Arepa, a cornmeal cake stuffed with a variety of fillings, is a signature offering here. There's also bean and rice bowls served with salsa and smooth Venezuelan guacamole, as well as fried yucca root appetizers.

A friend recently analogized that Boulder is to Longmont as Manhattan is to Brooklyn. From a dining standpoint, there's more than a grain of truth in this analogy. Boulder, like Manhattan, has more than its fair share of press-worthy, high-buck eateries whose prices are driven in no small part by premium real estate values.

If I've learned anything from the recent proliferation of high-end pizza eateries in Boulder, it's that these aren't the cheesy parlors of my childhood. No straw hat-doffing servers or coin-operated mechanical pony rides here. You won't find either at the new Pizzeria Locale,.

Pressed for time, colleague Carin and I weren't enthused to seek a blah lunch at a ho-hum sandwich shop or fast food joint during a recent journey to Broomfield. I also realized it had been some time since I had enjoyed a bowl of pho, Vietnamese beef noodle soup.

During a recent brunch with friends Tertia, Eric and Addie, we were all struck by the diversity of the weekend menu. The most ambitious brunch item is the $15 Southern Gentleman, perhaps more accurately termed the Portly Indulger, consisting of eggs, cheddar grits, ham steak with chicory gravy, greens, scallion biscuit and a whiskey shot.

Even when split, this intriguing blend of taste and texture divided into decently sized portions for each of us. A study in contrasts, this salad juxtaposed the veggies' earthiness with a bright tarragon and mint-scented vinaigrette. But it was the farmer's cheese that stole the show in this dish.

Gindi offers up a lunchtime slate of such light meal standbys as soup, salads and sandwiches. Dinner is available from Thursday to Saturday night with a reasonably priced menu in the $9.50-and-up range featuring burgers, stuffed squash and ahi tuna.

I´m just old enough to remember that when my parents went shopping for groceries, their outings weren't just limited to supermarkets. We'd go to locally owned specialty bakeries, produce shops and butchers, many of which are long gone, although two of them, Saag's and Just Desserts, have become noteworthy retail brands.