Café makes Eggcredible pierogi dumplings

Clay Fong

Nestled inside the Days Hotel
(formerly Inn) off South
Boulder Road, Boulder’s
Eggcredible Café, which
serves only breakfast and lunch,
features a cozy log cabin interior suggesting
wide open Western spaces. But look a
little more closely, and you’ll also notice
walls dotted with Eastern European folk
art and scenic photographs of Polish
cityscapes. This juxtaposition of East and
West also carries over to the menu, which
not only highlights omelets, pancakes and
sandwiches, but also a unique assortment
of pierogi dumplings.

Visiting on a snowy day, friends Jackie
and Wayne and I began brunch with
Silver Canyon coffee drinks, which
arrived at the table promptly, thanks to
our exceedingly polite server. Jackie opted
for a $3.79 latte, while Wayne enjoyed a
$2.49 double espresso. I ordered up a
$2.89 Colorado Kawa (Polish for “coffee”),
which blended coffee with hot
chocolate topped with whipped cream.
While these beverages lacked the fullbore
taste of specialty coffee shop drinks,
they held their own against those served
at other breakfast joints. One couldn’t
fault the jumbo size of the beverages, and watching
Jackie grapple with her oversized mug resembled something
straight out of Alice in Wonderland.

Wayne requested the $9.89 Benedict de Mare, a
well-presented composition of all-natural eggs and
smoked salmon atop the obligatory English muffin.
The weak link in the chain was the Hollandaise sauce,
marred by a watery texture and consequently wanting in
flavor. On the plus side, the poached eggs were perfectly
prepared with silky whites and a touch of runniness
in the yolk. Chopped bits of smoked salmon felt velvety
in the mouth without being overly salty.

Expert preparation also marked Jackie’s $8.29
Florentine Omelet, filled with tomato,
mushroom, cream cheese and namesake
spinach. The eggs were tender and fluffy,
complemented by vegetables that had
been heated enough to maximize their
flavor, but not to the point of overcooking.
The side of seasoned fried potatoes,
which also accompanied the Benedict,
possessed a pleasantly thin crust and sensually
soft interior. Wayne astutely
observed that these tubers were not from
the steam table and had obviously been
cooked to order.

I ordered the $9.89 Polish Pierogi
Platter off the lunch menu. Bathed in a
pungent garlic cream sauce and dusted
with paprika, three varieties of homemade
dumplings surrounded a scoop of potato
salad. As a garlic lover, I was delighted by
the sauce, and Jackie mused that it would
have been a superior alternative to the
Hollandaise on her omelet.

The first of the dumplings was the
zakopane, a tangy mix of sauerkraut and
mushrooms that were surprisingly hefty
without being overwhelming. Similarly,
the richly flavored potato and cheese variety
was filling, while still retaining a light
texture. The three-meat version was a
subtly accomplished blend of pork, chicken
and beef with each flavor supporting
the other. I would certainly return for
these dumplings, and I’m also eager to
sample the sweet fruit and cheese breakfast

As we concluded our meal, Wayne
observed that if he was a guest at the
hotel, he would be pleasantly surprised by
the quality and breadth of the Eggcredible’s menu. I
concurred, and it’s also clear this unpretentious eatery is
a worthwhile destination for the local resident seeking a
hearty breakfast or lunch prepared with considerable
care as well as memorable pierogi.

Clay’s Obscurity Corner: Mr. Pierogi and Miss Paczki

In America, the most significant celebration of Polish dumplings
occurs at the annual Whiting, Ind., Pierogi Fest. The 2010 edition
will run from July 23–25, and it features an International Polka
Parade, a pierogi toss, and a (gulp!) pierogi-eating contest. Mr.
Pierogi is the mascot of this event, and this individual, dressed as
a dumpling, serves as the city’s goodwill ambassador, posing for
pictures and presumably keeping the Dancing Pieroguettes in
line. Accompanying him is Miss Paczki, the personification of a
traditional dessert resembling a jelly donut. As the fest’s website
proclaims, “She’s the queen of jelly-filled bismarks!”