Try this week: Sauerbraten, wings and more

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Matt Cortina | Boulder Weekly

Sauerbraten

Bohemian Biergarten, 2017 13th St., Boulder,
bohemianbiergarten.com

German food is made for the winter. Hearty roasts and sausages, pungent cabbage and sauerkraut, liters of beer — it all warms the body and soul. Unfortunately, it hasn’t really felt like winter yet in Boulder County, but we’re going to Bohemian Biergarten anyway. Its menu of classic German dishes includes sauerbraten, beef marinated in red wine and vinegar before being slowly cooked until tender. Bohemian Biergarten nails the execution of the dish; the beef is slightly sweet and slightly sour, and the gravy on top pops with just a little baking spice and a little more sourness. The pickled red cabbage on the side is fantastic, punchy and well-spiced, and the curlicues of spätzle provide a great foundation for the extra gravy, beef and cabbage. Alongside a hot glüh wein (mulled wine) or a liter of Paulaner, you can’t go wrong. $14.

Buffalo Wings

Bluff Street Bar and Billiards, 2690 28th St., Boulder, bluffstreetbar.com

There’s a new bar where 28th Street Tavern once stood. Well, it’s under new management, but the place got a small makeover and folks seem pretty happy about it. Some bar favorites were kept on the menu, including buffalo wings, which may have gotten a little update themselves. These are good wings — thin, crispy skin (not heavily breaded or over-fried) covers deeply flavorful and moist chicken, tossed in a choice of sauce. Now, their hot buffalo sauce is truly hot — don’t go atomic unless you want to hurt yourself. But the hot sauce is vinegar-forward, perfectly spiced and adheres well to each chicken wing. $12 for 10 wings.

Szechuan Beef

Jin Chan Zhang, 1835 28th St., Boulder, jinchanzhangboulder.com

You may have passed by Jin Chan Zhang hundreds of times without stopping in. The strip mall edifice is barely visible from 28th St., and you’re likely zooming by. But if you stop in once, you’re probably going to stop in again. Its menu of staple Chinese dishes attracts a legion of loyal fans. The Szechuan beef indicates why folks like Jin Chan Zhang so much: its flavors are so well-refined. Served on fried rice, succulent slices of beef are mixed with celery, onion, red chilies and bok choy. It’s all covered in a semi-thick, sweet and spicy sauce. It’s simple and well-prepared Chinese food that encourages you to explore more of the menu. $9.95.

Della Toscana Sandwich

Lindsay’s Boulder Deli at Haagen Dazs, 1148 Pearl St., Boulder, lindsaysboulderdeli.com

Lindsay’s Boulder Deli is one of the finest sandwich shops in the county. It serves sandwiches in stuffed and over-stuffed sizes, and each packs the balance of flavor and texture you want out of a deli sando. The Della Toscana sandwich is fantastic — shredded, moist chicken is mixed with sun-dried tomatoes and red pepper and topped with fresh spinach, mozzarella, pesto and balsamic vinaigrette, all on a ciabatta roll. The balsamic, tomato and mozzarella create a magic foundation for the rest of the sandwich, and the olives and red pepper elevate it further. The bread, by the way, is chewy, well-seasoned and perfect for the sandwich. $8.59.