<![CDATA[Boulder - Weekly - Restaurant Review]]> <![CDATA[Zolo withstands the test of time]]> Nowadays Zolo’s lunch menu doesn’t stray too far from the basics of Southwestern cuisine and would still be accessible to the ’90s diner. There’s a certain comforting culinary classicism inherent in a menu showcasing such items as tortilla soup, blue corn fried oysters, rellenos and chicken enchiladas.]]> <![CDATA[Mainlining cured meats and cheeses]]> Back in the ’70s, Dad would often return from overseas business trips with his battered black briefcase freighted not with paperwork, but culinary treasures. Returning from Lisbon, Dad once brought back an enigmatic hunk of salted meat. “It’s Portuguese prosciutto,” he explained, “and it’s illegal in the United States.”]]> <![CDATA[Formidable pho]]> Pressed for time, colleague Carin and I weren't enthused to seek a blah lunch at a ho-hum sandwich shop or fast food joint during a recent journey to Broomfield. I also realized it had been some time since I had enjoyed a bowl of pho, Vietnamese beef noodle soup.]]> <![CDATA[A kitchen that deserves the hype]]> The clean setting is set off by high ceilings and an airy feel that evokes a sunny European bistro. If you were a location scout picking a Boulder filming venue for a rom-com starring Julia Roberts (as opposed to Seth Rogen), this would be the spot.]]> <![CDATA[An outdoor lunch at a landmark corner]]> Unfortunately this led to a few service delays, although she gamely tried her best. Later, a few management-looking types picked up the slack, although our starters arrived after the entrees. However, there are likely far more pressing issues in the world to worry about.]]> <![CDATA[Pizzeria Locale gives Bay-area pizza a whirl]]> Boulder’s Pizzeria Locale has been in business almost two years, and has solidified its position as a go-to spot for wood-fired, Naples-style pie.]]> <![CDATA[A promising FATE for tavern food]]> "Smoke gets in your food," declared John, considered by many to be the dean of local food scribes. Indeed, our lunch courses at the recently opened FATE Brewing Company were adhering to a certain fire-seasoned theme. A rich aroma of smoke wafted off our chicken wing starter, and John’s soon-to-arrive pastrami Rueben promised to continue the smoky motif.]]> <![CDATA[Cup at Conor’s]]> Unfortunately, pretty much everything I know about World Cup soccer comes from the mid-’90s pinball machine of the same name. I know that teams from around the world are involved and someone enthusiastically yells out “goal” in an elongated manner whenever points are scored.]]> <![CDATA[Royal Indian dining on the east side]]> Over the $8.99 lunch buffet at the Royal Clay Oven (formerly India’s Clay Oven) on Arapahoe, British-born friend Andrew and I discussed the differences between Indian restaurants in the U.S. and U.K. He pointed out that more people in the U.K. work in subcontinental eateries than in the shipbuilding, coal mining and steel-making industries combined.]]> <![CDATA[Respecting the urban taco’s roots]]> I’ll argue that the most critical determinant of an ethnic restaurant’s success is how much it respects the source cuisine. Go to any ethnic neighborhood in a big city, and you’ll likely chance upon a family-run hole in the wall that’s wildly popular due to its authentic home-style cooking.]]> <![CDATA[Upscale Mexican street food]]> One of my pet peeves is the eatery that appropriates inexpensive ethnic food and gussies it up beyond recognition with little resulting benefit. Adding insult to injury is the establishment that jacks up the prices on affordable chow to something approximating the cost of a taco truck rather than the taco itself.]]> <![CDATA[An alternative to the Indian buffet]]> Curry N Kebob fills a unique niche among Indian eateries by not featuring the ubiquitous buffet. Most options here cost a buck or two less than typical all-you-can-eat offerings, and service is reasonably fast, permitting those pressed for time to enjoy a subcontinental lunch.]]> <![CDATA[Simple, organic Italian on Pearl]]> Gone is the dark, cavernous bar setting where Charles Bukowski would have felt at home. In its place is a contemporary interior that lunch companion Patrick described as very “New York,” with its exposed brick, airy ambience and sculpted light fixtures. The Mexican-American dive known as Juanita’s is long gone, and in its place is the new Pastavino, billing itself as “simple, organic, Italian.”]]> <![CDATA[Go west for summer cookout fare]]> First up was the Tavern’s $6 take on deviled, or as they call them, picnic, eggs, a selection my inner Cool Hand Luke found appealing. The West End’s presentation consisted of a half-dozen jumbo oeuvres, subtly spiced with turmeric, although they also suffered from too much salt. The yolks featured silky smooth texture, and appeared to have been piped through a pastry bag. Whites had a touch of give, and none of the rubberiness associated with overcooking.]]> <![CDATA[Rib House still satisfies in its new digs]]> Tracy, the genial owner who cites Kansas City style ’cue as a significant influence, walked companion Keith and I through the menu, interspersing nostalgic tales of dining at K.C.’s Arthur Bryant’s.]]> <![CDATA[Coffee up and brunch]]> For my money, the key predictor of the success of a brunch outing comes with the first sip of house java. My bleary-eyed pal Cyn and I had just blown into Lyons, ensconced ourselves in a corner table at the Lyons Fork, and requested coffee first thing out of the gate.]]> <![CDATA[Stars from the ’50s]]> A few years back, a California chain, Ruby’s, attempted to create a ’50s retro diner at Boulder’s Twenty Ninth Street. This space was recently resurrected as a retro eatery under local ownership and a new moniker, the StarLite Diner and Lounge. Like its predecessor, the ambience suggests a trip back in time, with plenty of vinyl banquettes and neon accented by cruiser bicycles and soaked in a golden oldies soundtrack.]]> <![CDATA[Rolling with noodles in Lafayette]]> The decor is minimal in this narrow 40-seat eatery, which features several tables and a tiny sushi bar in the back. I noticed a fair number of Asian families dining here, always a good sign. Noodle offerings including thick udon, as well as more svelte ramen, are available in a variety of broths.]]> <![CDATA[On-the-go bagels and Moe]]> For the most part, previous forays to the three Moe’s locations scattered across town (there’s a Denver branch too) were of the grab-and-go variety.]]> <![CDATA[Open mouth, insert wing]]> REO Speedwagon’s Hi Infidelity, the first season of Miami Vice and the John Madden-era Oakland Raiders are among my myriad of guilty pleasures. Chicken wings come close to making this list. However, many versions, either prepared indifferently or adhering too faithfully to the vinegary tones of the original Buffalo version, inevitably disappoint. For this reason, they have yet to reach the exalted status of a guilty pleasure.]]>